Stephane Bernaudeau Les Nourrissons Vin de France 2023 750ml

Les Nourrissons is the 0.7-hectare plot of Chenin planted in 1910 that Stéphane Bernaudeau bought in 2000, and his first harvest from it came to four hectolitres per hectare.

Diony, the domaine's importer in Japan, tells the story of the purchase: a 0.7-hectare parcel in Anjou carrying vines planted in 1910, bought in 2000 while Bernaudeau was still employed at Mark Angeli's Ferme de la Sansonnière. He asked Angeli to cut his week to four days and gave Wednesdays and weekends to the old vines; that first year, at four hectolitres per hectare, the wine spent thirteen months in barrel. Diony's technical sheet lists the plot as clay and schist, 20 hectolitres per hectare from vines averaging 105 years, and Le Carré des Vins, writing on the 2023, likewise gives clay-schist soil and vines over a century old at Martigné-Briand, farmed biodynamically. iDealwine places the terroir at Aubigné-sur-Layon; the label gives the bottler's address as Martigné-Briand.

The 2023 label reads 12.5% alcohol, unfiltered, with a handwritten vintage, lot L2023R35 and an instruction to keep the bottle below 14°C. Le Carré des Vins describes the 2023 as pressed and fermented on indigenous yeasts in barriques from very low yields, then held sixteen months on fine lees without fining, filtration or added sulphur. Diony's sheet for an earlier release recorded twelve months sur lie and a small sulphur addition totalling 38 mg/L, so by Carré's account the 2023 régime is longer and sulphur-free. DRNKS adds that whole bunches go through a vertical press, that malolactic is left to happen on its own, and that Bernaudeau keeps botrytis out of every cuvée. He told Diony that schist draws out the mineral side of old Chenin, that the wine stays on its lees without racking, and that picking once the seeds are ripe has let him lower his sulphur.

In the glass

Le Carré des Vins, tasting the 2023, reports an unusually deep aromatic register: white flowers and jasmine, tuffeau and iodine, soft spice and discreet oak, pear and mandarin, with a naturally rich palate wrapped in oak that is already well integrated, and tension, energy and persistence at the close; they rank it among the domaine's finest cuvées. Diony's note on the 2015 release spoke of a viscous yellow colour, lemongrass and honeyed scents and a lifting citrus acidity. iDealwine describes the house style as pale yellow with gold reflections and an unctuous texture.

When to open

Le Carré des Vins advises drinking from 2026, a peak between 2028 and 2033 and holding to 2038 or beyond, decanted and served at 12°C; iDealwine suggests 15°C.

At the table

Le Carré des Vins pairs the 2023 with spit-roasted turbot, a fine Robuchon potato purée and pimientos de padrón.

Quick facts

Provenance

Sourced from the Japanese importer.

Sources: Diony (Japanese importer); bottle label; Le Carré des Vins; DRNKS; iDealwine; Sotheby's Wine