Edmond Vatan Sancerre “Clos la Néore” 2022 – Magnum (1500ml)

This is the vintage of the year Edmond Vatan died, aged 92; Antonio Galloni of Vinous scores the magnum 96 and calls it another rich, dense wine.

Antonio Galloni's August 2026 vertical report in Vinous gives the history: Edmond Vatan, born in 1929, tore out his old Sauvignon Blanc vines in 1960, left the land fallow for nine years and replanted it in 1969 from his own massal selection. The plot is one hectare in the heart of Le Mont Damné at Chavignol, on Kimmeridgian soils of the kind found in Chablis, and it is the only wine the family makes. Anne Vatan, a professor with a doctorate, worked beside her father on the 2006 and 2007 and has made the wine alone since 2008; Edmond died in 2022, and she now runs the domaine with her husband Nady Foucault of Clos Rougeard. Nomura Unison, the Japanese importer, adds that the family farms 4.5 hectares in all.

La Route des Blancs describes 2022 at Chavignol as another early, sun-filled year: June rain and a few August showers spared the vines water stress through a hot summer, and cooler nights from mid-August let flavour ripen while acidity held. The whites were picked from the last days of August at a fairly generous crop and around 13 degrees potential, a relief after a 2021 of frost and tiny yields. Le Carré des Vins lists the vines at about fifty years old. Galloni records no sulphur at crush, spontaneous fermentation and bottling without fining or filtration. Alcohol came in at 14%, a point below the 2020, which he attributes to letting each year speak. Since 2018 the Vatans have bottled Clos La Néore only in magnum to discourage early drinking.

In the glass

Galloni's note, as quoted by Albatross Wines, finds dried orchard fruit, chamomile, marzipan, sage and white flowers building in the glass, with aeration bringing freshness, cut and verve to set against the richness of the year. Texturally, he writes, the wine sits closer to Chenin Blanc than to Sauvignon Blanc. La Route des Blancs sees pale gold with a green glint, star anise, fresh mint, grapefruit and lime, and a full, juicy palate on a chalky, peppery thread ending on sea salt.

When to open

La Route des Blancs advises 2027 to at least 2046, served at 12°C and opened one to two hours ahead; Le Carré des Vins puts the peak at 2032 to 2042.

At the table

La Route des Blancs suggests a scallop or langoustine carpaccio with fine herbs and finger lime while young; later, grilled lobster brushed with tarragon and citrus butter.

Quick facts

Provenance

Sourced from the Japanese importer.

Sources: Nomura Unison (Japanese importer); Vinous (A. Galloni, Aug 2026); Albatross Wines (quoting Vinous); La Route des Blancs; Le Carré des Vins; iDealwine; NY Somm Cellars; Atlas Wine