Stephane Bernaudeau Les Coqueries Vin de France 2023 750ml

Les Coqueries is the latest parcel Stéphane Bernaudeau has bottled on its own, first released from the 2019 harvest, and it comes from his youngest vines.

Bernaudeau, born in 1972, joined Mark Angeli at La Ferme de la Sansonnière in 1994 and bought his first 0.7 hectares of century-old Chenin in Anjou in 2000, farming them on Wednesdays and weekends while still employed next door. Diony, his importer in Japan, recorded on a February 2016 visit that the holding had grown by about three hectares and that he was leaving Angeli that year to work only his own vines. iDealwine puts the total at just over two hectares around Martigné-Briand, Crush Wine Co at just over three.

Each parcel is bottled separately. Les Coqueries sits in the commune of Thouarcé, on the slope below Bonnezeaux where the Layon river cuts the village in two, according to Diony's technical sheet; Le Carré des Vins places the plot in the bed of the Layon. Crush Wine Co notes that the bottling comes from younger vines, in contrast to Les Nourrissons, planted in 1910. The wine is Chenin Blanc, declared as Vin de France.

Harvest is by hand and whole bunches go into a vertical press; the juice ferments on its own yeasts either in 228-litre barrels that have held several wines or in 15-hectolitre Vicard foudres in two small rooms beside the house, and malolactic is allowed but not forced, as DRNKS reports from the domaine. He keeps botrytis out of every cuvée because he finds it brings honeyed, heavy aromatics. Diony's sheet for the first release lists no fining or filtration, a small sulphur addition totalling 35 mg/L and 13% alcohol; he told Diony in 2016 that he picks when the seeds are ripe and the grape tastes right rather than waiting for late-harvest sugar, which has lowered his sulphur use.

In the glass

No critic note for the 2023 has been found. Diony described the 2019 release as light yellow tinged with green, with aromas of sweetie citrus, lime and green fruit, sharp and dry on entry with a cool impression and well-integrated acidity. Le Carré des Vins found the 2022 purer and more sun-filled, with candied kumquat, lime blossom, fresh quince, white pepper and a smoky edge, generous weight set against exact acidity and a long finish carried by fine bitters.

When to open

iDealwine suggests serving at 12°C. Le Carré des Vins felt the 2022 needed a little patience for its finish to settle; on that basis, our suggestion is to open the 2023 from 2026 onward, or decant if opening now.

At the table

iDealwine pairs it with breaded Camembert, chorba and pork fillet Orloff; our suggestion is grilled river fish with beurre blanc.

Quick facts

Provenance

Sourced from the Japanese importer.

Sources: Diony (Japanese importer); iDealwine; Le Carré des Vins; Crush Wine Co; DRNKS; The Stunned Mullet